Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Next sewing class: Fine Lingerie - Jalie 3242

Simon and I will be starting a new sewing class together this week. We will be taking Mme Dorothée Barnes' class at Club TissusLingerie fine (or in English Fine lingerie). So basically, we are sewing underwear. I have to finish the bras I started in the previous class. I am not 100% happy with the pattern. I find the upper cup cuts in too much. I need to adjust the pattern (again). But this time it does not depress me. I just need to find the time.

So we are making 5 different models. I told Simon we were starting off with model F, lol. No I doubt we are doing that one.

But with this pattern you can do garments for the entire family. It really is great value for your money.

I can't wait to make matching underwear for my bras! Now to finish a bra that I want to wear. I wore the white one with lace, but I did not like the fit of the upper cup. I will see if I can remove the top elastic (when I say "I" I mean like the French "on" - which excludes the person who is speaking  meaning I will ask Simon to remove my stitches)

Our first week we learned about how to modify the pattern to suit our measurements. For our first pattern we're going to do the classic version using pattern pieces C D and E. We merge the pattern pieces together for the front and back to avoid an extra seam. I made the liner 1 inch longer in front period I took off 7.5 centimeters from the hip in front and had the back match-up.

We chose a nice white Venise material. This material is so luxurious, silky and smooth. The liner is from a nice white interlock material.

We will stick to basic white for the beginning pattern and not add any lace or fancy details.

The liner is sewn onto the main fabric only sewing the sides. Our sewing instructor is really bothered by seeing lines from the liners through clothing. I would have to agree with her, that is not a good look. I will go with her judgment and only sew the sides.

After this we need to sew on the elastics on the sides of the Garment. The rest will be done next class.

This is Simon's homework. Of course he added piping, French seams and a lot of details! I would not expect anything less from him. I am so proud of his attempt!

Me, I need to learn the basics before adding so much details.

You can see the great pattern placement and the nice details the piping made.

The buckling is due to stretching the material when sewing. Things we learn.

He put piping on the back piece. I don't want extra lines on the back that will be seen through my garments, He will not add this on the next ones. Things men don't normally know about, now he knows! This pattern is a bit large, so it has been modified for the next ones.

Now for mine. They look so plain next to Simon's! The first elastic did not go on so well, but by the second side I got the hang of it. I also chose a very narrow elastic. I purchased wider ones for my next attempts. On this pattern I only had to remove a little it on the derriere.

Now to install the waistband elastic.

Prise 2: Black pair

I tried the same pattern again, with a bit removed from the buttocks. Sewing the elastic was a lot easier the second time around. It helps that I am now using the proper zig zag setting.

I am not 100% happy with the way I topstitched the elastic. I have not gotten the trick. You can't pull elastics when you sew them, otherwise they loose their elasticity. But you need to lay flat the fabric to topstitch it.

 I am sure the instructor will give me more direction and I will succeed the next pair.

The lining goes on well. 

I used the same elastic for the band as I did for the legs. I played around with the stitches to attach it.

This is Simon's version, prise 2. He made it smaller this time.

He used the new lace and lined it with the beige.

His stitching is much better than mine. I will need to take pointers!

This time he did not make any seams in the back, Much cleaner look and feeling.

The next class we sewed 3 types of underwear: The G-string, a lace underwear and men's bikini. Simon and I have sewed 3 G-strings so far. Simon added a few steps in his design, naturally. 

On our first pair Simon chose a nice blue lace. For the crotch he used the same material for the lining as the outer layer.

He used invisible seams for the layering of the material and the elastic. His first attempt he ripped the material when turning it right side out. The second attempt came out perfectly.                   I will attempt a straight version before attempting this. 

We chose the medium, but it was a bit too large. We modified how the V in the back joined together to make it more cinched. 

 And I adjusted the crotch length.

All in all this is a beautiful pair!
Now there is a beautiful pink lace with a black design that I will skip over until the end. I started it, but the design part was a bit taxing on my brain. I left it for Simon. He loves puzzles. When I am learning I prefer straight and to the point to understand the basics. And this pair took fold over elastics. That I will attempt after 1 or 2 regular elastic applications.

Now here is my version. A fun bright yellow. I used my laminating machine with Legal sized plastic pouches to laminate the pattern. I adjusted the pattern to a size small. The only piece you need to adjust is the band. The front and crotch remain the same size.

Sewing the 2 front pieces together go much easier when there is no pesky deign to complicate matters, 

Sewing the elastics on the waistband is easy as pie!

The crotch length here has not been modified yet. I wanted to try it on before adjusting the length. The band I used was the full width and this lace is a bit less extensible. 

I was afraid the elastic would make it too bulky, but it came out perfectly. 

Here is the back version. The design has a nice V with elastic on top.

Here is the finished front view. I am happy with my results.
And now for Simon's latest version:

Next up is the men's version of undergaments, version D The first pair we did was the men's bikini. There were no modifications done to the pattern, we straight traced, cut and sewed this pair. Super great cut and super nice looking!

This fabric we bought at Stretch Text and the elastic was bought at Club Tissus

The seams around the hips were done with a chanel band. If a chanel is used instead of an elastic you need to remove 1cm from the fabric as you do not have an elastic that fold over the fabric.

The "cache tresoir" is sewn with invisble seams. I have not done this etchnque yet, so I have not grasped it yet. I need to do it myself to "get it". But all the seams are hidden.

 Here is the garment wring side out. You don't see any seams in the middle .... Magic!

Tuesday, March 21, 2017

New Jalie Patterns - I could not resist!

So we have all be in wait for Jalie to release their new line of patterns. It has been a long time that we have waited, what 2 years? In that time I have made MANY Jalie creations. I am still on the hunt for a nice cardigan pattern, and this season looks like I may have found a winner. 

There are a few patterns from Jalie’s newest line that I just can’t resist. This weekend I was at Club Tissus in St-Hubert and they had one that I have my eye on. My favorite pattern is 3676 VANESSA Fluid Pants. I have a few RTW pants that are this style and they are the most comfortable ever! They are like PJ’s but I can wear them at work. I will do the 2 styles, A view for dressy and the B view for casual.

They look so comfortable! 

Now I know what you are thinking - you are taking a sewing class for your bra - one that is SUCKING your sewing mojo - and another starting in 1 week for undergarments. But they had this pattern left in stock - it was a sign! Plus these pants are 2 pieces
plus an elastic waistband - one hour at tops

The second pattern I will try is 3677, the HÉLÈNE Shawl Collar Cardigan. This is exactly what I have been on the hunt for. I can't wait to see if it lives up to my expectations.

What Jalie patterns are you eyeing? Have you made any yet? What are your reviews?